Pleats on Wested, Cooper, Flight Suits

Posted by California Smith from 209.37.101.171 on September 28, 2000 at 13:58:24:

In Reply to: Clarification... posted by Patterson on September 28, 2000 at 12:26:54:

: [Shawnkara] “I always wondered what everyone meant by the seams not lining up; it's the shoulder seams. They don't line up with those of the sleeves but since both sides match I don't think it's any big deal.”

: [Patterson] The seams are the stress points, as one tailor pointed out to me. They dictate how a garment fits, drapes and functions. By not aligning the shoulder seams correctly across sizes, the bi-swing pleat cannot function properly.

: [Shawnkara] “I heard someone mention that the bi-swing 'balloons' out below the shoulders when worn, rather than laying flat. Check the movie, I believe Harrison's did this as well.”

: [Patterson] It did when he moved, but then it closed properly after. What makes the pleat operate properly is making the pleat deep enough, using the correct materials, and aligning the seams. The LC jacket did have this problem on screen, but it appears to be because the pleat is not very deep

I thought I would throw my two cents in about the functional bi-swing back. I have had the cooper Indy for 11 years now, and the Wested for one. The Cooper Indy was based, in my opinion, on the LC jacket. The pleats are very shallow and do not function at all. My Wested has very deep pleats. One side goes in and out like it should, but the other side did not.

Well, I noticed that G1 Navy jackets had two wide pieces of cloth elastic inside to maintain tension across the pleats. I took my Wested to my tailor and asked her to do the same thing. Well, it worked great. If i reach across, the pleat opens but it maintains its integrity as well. Very similar to the scene where Indy reaches behind him and brushes the tarantulas off his own shoulder.

What I am wondering is if jackets that everything perfectly aligned do this function without the elastic? I don't really see how. What do you think Paterson?

Follow Ups:

Re: Pleats on Wested, Cooper, Flight Suits Bo Walker 16:14:04 9/28/2000 (3)
- Welsome! Patterson 16:42:17 9/28/2000 (2)
  - Re: Welsome! Bo Walker 18:43:33 9/28/2000 (1)
    - I can spell, I just have fat fingers today... Patterson 19:50:01 9/28/2000 (0)
Ok, I'm a jacket-junkie... Patterson 15:53:06 9/28/2000 (0)

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: : [Shawnkara] “I always wondered what everyone meant by the seams not lining up; it's the shoulder seams. They don't line up with those of the sleeves but since both sides match I don't think it's any big deal.”

: : [Patterson] The seams are the stress points, as one tailor pointed out to me.  They dictate how a garment fits, drapes and functions.  By not aligning the shoulder seams correctly across sizes, the bi-swing pleat cannot function properly.

: : [Shawnkara] “I heard someone mention that the bi-swing 'balloons' out below the shoulders when worn, rather than laying flat. Check the movie, I believe Harrison's did this as well.”

: : [Patterson] It did when he moved, but then it closed properly after.  What makes the pleat operate properly is making the pleat deep enough, using the correct materials, and aligning the seams.  The LC jacket did have this problem on screen, but it appears to be because the pleat is not very deep

: I thought I would throw my two cents in about the functional bi-swing back. I have had the cooper Indy for 11 years now, and the Wested for one. The Cooper Indy was based, in my opinion, on the LC jacket. The pleats are very shallow and do not function at all. My Wested has very deep pleats. One side goes in and out like it should, but the other side did not.

: Well, I noticed that G1 Navy jackets had two wide pieces of cloth elastic inside to maintain tension across the pleats. I took my Wested to my tailor and asked her to do the same thing. Well, it worked great. If i reach across, the pleat opens but it maintains its integrity as well. Very similar to the scene where Indy reaches behind him and brushes the tarantulas off his own shoulder.

: What I am wondering is if jackets that everything perfectly aligned do this function without the elastic? I don't really see how. What do you think Paterson?

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