Re: Akubra Fed Dimensional Trim, Shaping and Ribbon Dyeing Notes

Posted by Tony Parker from dial-208.51.228.156.usadatanet.net on May 20, 2001 at 21:23:36:

In Reply to: Re: Akubra Fed Dimensional Trim, Shaping and Ribbon Dyeing Notes posted by Indy Sean on May 20, 2001 at 20:42:00:

Thanks for your reply!

Here's some more questions re: ribbons, etc.

As mentioned previously, I received the 1-1/2" and 1-7/8" dark brown Petersham ribbon Friday , and I feel that the ribbon is much too light a shade of brown for use as a ribbon and bow in an Indy Akubra Federation hat.

Following suggestions from all you Hat Mavens, I dyed the ribbons with a 4-2 mix of RIT Dark Brown-Black dyes. I cooked the ribbon for 25 minutes in a solution of 16oz water, 6oz dye mix, and approx 1 oz of table salt as per manufacturer's instruction. Apparently the salt helps the dye "bite" into synthetic and synthetic blend fabrics. Do you have any other suggestions on this topic?

(Just for fun I removed The Akubra Federation Ribbon and it took the dye very nicely as well. I rinsed the ribbon in cold water to set the dye and the ribbon has dried to a nice rich, deep, dark, black-brown which I think works a lot nicer than just a plain black ribbon. Unfortunately the Akubra Fed ribbon shrank too much from the dyeing process so it didn't work out as direct replacement). Is there a way to stretch ribbon back to it's original
length?

So I'm ready to proceed the next stage of attaching the ribbon & bow to the Akubra Federation hat, and I have a few questions before I proceed..

I'd really like to hear from hat "experts" like yourselves, the exact
procedure for attaching the ribbon, and making and attaching the
bow onto the Akubra Fed.

Is there any material available, including pictures, either on-line on the internet or in print where I could see how it is done "properly" and in the 30's style.

Are there any "close-up" pictures that show the proper "look". I've noticed that the modern hatters seem to get "cheap" and "chintzy" with the ribbon material and actually "skimp" on the material for the main ribbon band around the hat crown. Is that they way they did it in the 30's also? Is that the way really "fancy" custom hatters make the ribbon band and the bow? How do they do it? Are there any pictures, or urls, of booklets where I can get the information?

What kind and size needle and thread would you use? Would you use silk or cotton thread? For a dark black/brown ribbon would you use black thread or brown thread? What kind of stitches do you use?

When you replace a ribbon, do you sew/stitch all the way through the hat crown? Do you remove the hat lining to access the inside of the crown to complete the ribbon attaching process?

I have also heard other Indy Fans using a large range of sizes for the width of the hat ribbon for the 6" high crown on the Akubra Federation hat. I've heard 1-1/2", 39mm, 40mm, 1-3/4", 1-7/8", 2". I'd really like to hear some opinions on that as well.

Also are there any pics or urls that describe the proper "professional" of method "How to" apply the hat ribbon. Any suggestions. I do have some rather specific questions about the hat ribbon, so I'd like to hear from The ribbon Mavens out there.

All the best,

Tony Parker

: The Fed's color is practically identical to the HJ's color, just a TINY tad darker. Don't worry also, it will lighten (fedora can confirm this). The Miller is a richer more reddish brown like the Styetson Nostalgia et al. It may seem more similar to the film hats because the lighting in the films made everything seem lighter. This is why the shirt appears off white instead of khaki.

:
: Greg can help with the ribbon info, or check out his link (courtesy of Greg):

: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1553378&a=11785922

: I used the black scalloped edge Petersham ribbon that Hats Direct sent me upon request of a black ribbon with my hat. It is 1 1/2" which is the same as 39mm. Look at my Fed hat pics to see, I think it is a good width (besides being the authentic). The wider widths you are referring to go better for a bigger size head (bigger than say 7 1/2) where the specs of the original hat should be made proportionally bigger to look correct. I wear a 7 1/8 close to Ford's 7 1/4, so I stay with the original specs.

: Even with your Fed, I wouls still stay with the original ribbon width. However, if you have a custom measured hat like a PB, the na high crowned (6 or more inches bashed) will look better with a wider ribbon.

: The point is, it's all about proportion to achieve the right look.

: Check out MK's fedora page or email me and I'll send you a jpg of a collage of Raiders fedora shots which I made-I've found it indispensable for shaping my hats.

: By the way, I used a black thread with the black ribbon, which I made the double bow myself, and stitched on myself using a thin needle and stitches to keep the ribbon tight.

: Cheers,

: Indy Sean

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: Thanks for your reply!

: Here's some more questions re: ribbons, etc.

: As mentioned previously, I received the 1-1/2" and 1-7/8" dark brown Petersham ribbon Friday , and I feel that the ribbon is much too light a shade of brown for use as a ribbon and bow in an Indy Akubra Federation hat.

: Following suggestions from all you Hat Mavens, I dyed the ribbons with a 4-2 mix of RIT Dark Brown-Black dyes. I cooked the ribbon for 25 minutes in a solution of 16oz water, 6oz dye mix, and approx 1 oz of table salt as per manufacturer's instruction. Apparently the salt helps the dye "bite" into synthetic and synthetic blend fabrics. Do you have any other suggestions on this topic?

: (Just for fun I removed The Akubra Federation Ribbon and it took the dye very nicely as well. I rinsed the ribbon in cold water to set the dye and the ribbon has dried to a nice rich, deep, dark, black-brown which I think works a lot nicer than just a plain black ribbon. Unfortunately the Akubra Fed ribbon shrank too much from the dyeing process so it didn't work out as direct replacement). Is there a way to stretch ribbon back to it's original
: length?

: So I'm ready to proceed the next stage of attaching the ribbon & bow to the Akubra Federation hat, and I have a few questions before I proceed..

: I'd really like to hear from hat "experts" like yourselves, the exact
: procedure for attaching the ribbon, and making and attaching the
: bow onto the Akubra Fed.

: Is there any material available, including pictures, either on-line on the internet or in print where I could see how it is done "properly" and in the 30's style.

: Are there any "close-up" pictures that show the proper "look". I've noticed that the modern hatters seem to get "cheap" and "chintzy" with the ribbon material and actually "skimp" on the material for the main ribbon band around the hat crown. Is that they way they did it in the 30's also? Is that the way really "fancy" custom hatters make the ribbon band and the bow? How do they do it? Are there any pictures, or urls, of booklets where I can get the information?

: What kind and size needle and thread would you use? Would you use silk or cotton thread? For a dark black/brown ribbon would you use black thread or brown thread? What kind of stitches do you use?

: When you replace a ribbon, do you sew/stitch all the way through the hat crown? Do you remove the hat lining to access the inside of the crown to complete the ribbon attaching process?

: I have also heard other Indy Fans using a large range of sizes for the width of the hat ribbon for the 6" high crown on the Akubra Federation hat. I've heard 1-1/2", 39mm, 40mm, 1-3/4", 1-7/8", 2". I'd really like to hear some opinions on that as well.

: Also are there any pics or urls that describe the proper "professional" of method "How to" apply the hat ribbon. Any suggestions. I do have some rather specific questions about the hat ribbon, so I'd like to hear from The ribbon Mavens out there.

: All the best,

: Tony Parker

: 
: : The Fed's color is practically identical to the HJ's color, just a TINY tad darker. Don't worry also, it will lighten (fedora can confirm this). The Miller is a richer more reddish brown like the Styetson Nostalgia et al. It may seem more similar to the film hats because the lighting in the films made everything seem lighter. This is why the shirt appears off white instead of khaki.

: : 
: : Greg can help with the ribbon info, or check out his link (courtesy of Greg):

: : http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1553378&a=11785922

: : I used the black scalloped edge Petersham ribbon that Hats Direct sent me upon request of a black ribbon with my hat. It is 1 1/2" which is the same as 39mm. Look at my Fed hat pics to see, I think it is a good width (besides being the authentic). The wider widths you are referring to go better for a bigger size head (bigger than say 7 1/2) where the specs of the original hat should be made proportionally bigger to look correct. I wear a 7 1/8 close to Ford's 7 1/4, so I stay with the original specs.

: : Even with your Fed, I wouls still stay with the original ribbon width. However, if you have a custom measured hat like a PB, the na high crowned (6 or more inches bashed) will look better with a wider ribbon.

: : The point is, it's all about proportion to achieve the right look.

: : Check out MK's fedora page or email me and I'll send you a jpg of a collage of Raiders fedora shots which I made-I've found it indispensable for shaping my hats.

: : By the way, I used a black thread with the black ribbon, which I made the double bow myself, and stitched on myself using a thin needle and stitches to keep the ribbon tight.

: : Cheers,

: : Indy Sean

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