Re: Akubra Fed Dimensional Trim, Shaping and Ribbon Dyeing Notes

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Posted by Tony Parker from dial-208.51.228.156.usadatanet.net on May 20, 2001 at 21:34:40:

In Reply to: Re: Akubra Fed Dimensional Trim, Shaping and Ribbon Dyeing Notes posted by Greg on May 20, 2001 at 21:20:38:

I'd really like to hear from hat "experts" like yourselves, the exact
procedure for attaching the ribbon, and making and attaching the
bow onto the Akubra Fed.

Is there any material available, including pictures, either on-line on the internet or in print where I could see how it is done "properly" and in the 30's style.

Are there any "close-up" pictures that show the proper "look". I've noticed that the modern hatters seem to get "cheap" and "chintzy" with the ribbon material and actually "skimp" on the material for the main ribbon band around the hat crown. Is that they way they did it in the 30's also? Is that the way really "fancy" custom hatters make the ribbon band and the bow? How do they do it? Are there any pictures, or urls, of booklets where I can get the information?

What kind and size needle and thread would you use? Would you use silk or cotton thread? For a dark black/brown ribbon would you use black thread or brown thread? What kind of stitches do you use?

When you replace a ribbon, do you sew/stitch all the way through the hat crown? Do you remove the hat lining to access the inside of the crown to complete the ribbon attaching process? Where can I get a pic or an image of a "tack stitch"?

I have also heard other Indy Fans using a large range of sizes for the width of the hat ribbon for the 6" high crown on the Akubra Federation hat. I've heard 1-1/2", 39mm, 40mm, 1-3/4", 1-7/8", 2". I'd really like to hear some opinions on that as well.

Also are there any pics or urls that describe the proper "professional" method "How to" apply the hat ribbon. Any suggestions? I do have some rather specific questions about the hat ribbon, so I'd like to hear from The ribbon Mavens out there.

All the best,

Tony Parker

: : The Fed's color is practically identical to the HJ's color, just a TINY tad darker. Don't worry also, it will lighten (fedora can confirm this). The Miller is a richer more reddish brown like the Styetson Nostalgia et al. It may seem more similar to the film hats because the lighting in the films made everything seem lighter. This is why the shirt appears off white instead of khaki.

: :
: : Greg can help with the ribbon info, or check out his link (courtesy of Greg):

: : http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1553378&a=11785922

: : I used the black scalloped edge Petersham ribbon that Hats Direct sent me upon request of a black ribbon with my hat. It is 1 1/2" which is the same as 39mm. Look at my Fed hat pics to see, I think it is a good width (besides being the authentic). The wider widths you are referring to go better for a bigger size head (bigger than say 7 1/2) where the specs of the original hat should be made proportionally bigger to look correct. I wear a 7 1/8 close to Ford's 7 1/4, so I stay with the original specs.

: : Even with your Fed, I wouls still stay with the original ribbon width. However, if you have a custom measured hat like a PB, the na high crowned (6 or more inches bashed) will look better with a wider ribbon.

: : The point is, it's all about proportion to achieve the right look.

: : Check out MK's fedora page or email me and I'll send you a jpg of a collage of Raiders fedora shots which I made-I've found it indispensable for shaping my hats.

: : By the way, I used a black thread with the black ribbon, which I made the double bow myself, and stitched on myself using a thin needle and stitches to keep the ribbon tight.

: : Cheers,

: : Indy Sean

: I just recently got my Federation, and I have to say that I am duelly impressed by this hat. The soft pliability of the felt is fantastic! Really allows for the hat to look as different as it does in nearly every scene of each movie! My hat looks great with the new ribbon and cut brim.

: I too, used Judith M ribbon that I dyed using a similar black/brown mixture (you've got to cut the ribbon to about 45 inches or more since the ribbon shrinks in the hot dye mixture). You will need somewhere around 23 inches-depending on the circumference of your hat- to form the ribbon around the crown, about 11 inches to make the bow and the remaining 2 inches to fold and wrap around the bow piece to form the "knot" of the bow.

: You'll need to lay the 23 inch crown piece out and iron it into a slight arc so that it will wrap tightly around the crown. Then fold the 11 inch bow piece almost in half with the back side sticking out to the right about 1/2 inch beyond the front piece. Lay it down on the ironing board so that this longer back piece is angled slightly higher than the front piece and then iron the fold flat.

: Next, fold the 2 inch long piece lengthwise (not in half). This piece will then fold over the center of the bow piece.

: When stitching the ribbon onto the hat, remember that you are just "tacking" the ribbon in place. Tacking stitches sit right on top of one another and when finished, should barely be noticeable. A thin needle will be best for this, but you may want a thimble.

: On a side note here, my wife is thrilled that I am sewing something! She is a sewing hobbyist and makes her own clothing and quilts, so now that I can stitch hat ribbons on, she doesn't buy that I can't sew buttons back onto shirts and tells me that I can just do it myself! Oh well, have to sacrifice something for the hobby!

: Greg




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