You learn more about jackets every day...

Posted by Patterson from 63.104.29.112 on February 08, 2001 at 17:09:34:

I’ve learned something new, and felt like sharing with the class.

First, anybody out there notice they had a lot of room in their Flight Suit jacket? Well, I did, and I kind of liked it. I noticed I had much more room through the chest and shoulders as compared to my Wested, with the jacket still fitting correctly across the shoulders. I had not really given it much thought until Lee and I spent the morning at Flight Suits a few weeks ago to hash out the patterns. That was when I learned about “building ease into a garment.”

The amount of ease is the amount of “give” built into the garment that allows for movement. The placement of ease is critical to the garment hanging correctly, allowing movement, but without a baggy appearance. This came up in the wrangling over measurements and proportions. It seems a FS Expedition has about 10 inches of ease built into the chest, for example. When this was explained, we asked them to look at the Wested LC I had brought along. It had 4 inches of ease through the chest. It is important to remember that they cut the jacket to make this extra “invisible” when the jacket hangs on you. Honestly, I was quite impressed when they showed me how this was done.

The point behind putting so much ease into a FS jacket is to allow the wearer to put on a sweater, or whatever under their jacket. In their experience making A2’s and G1’s over the years, 10 inches seems to be right. I asked, then “so if I’m just wearing t-shirts, polos and maybe the occasional long sleeve under this, can I go with a 46? Maybe even a 44?” My chest measures 48 inches. My Wested is a 48, finished at 52. Do I really need a 58? I don’t think so. To be honest, my Wested is a bit tight through the chest when zipped (ala the bar scene). But about 4 extra inches of expertly hidden room would probably do me just fine. Also, this helps in the tapering of the waist. I hade an extra 4 inches of room with my 48 - and that was before they agreed to take 2 off the standard pattern. Going down a size will likely get the waist and hips dialed in much better.

Just something else that helps explains the fit issues we had, and the realization by both parties really helped move things along. Hey, now that I just a 46, does the cost of my jacket come down by $30? I may have to make a call…

Oh, by the way. I decided to try the veg seal brown goat. They have some that is a bit thinner than they prefer, though it is the same thickness as their standard lambskin. I’m looking forward to seeing that box show up!

Cheers!

Patterson

Follow Ups:

I tend to agree with ..... Junior 18:04:49 2/08/2001 (8)
- The point is... Patterson 18:17:59 2/08/2001 (7)
  - You can lead a horse to water but ...... (nm) Flash Fearless 18:51:42 2/08/2001 (6)
    - but...you can never lead a horticulture(nm) Fedora 10:56:42 2/10/2001 (1)
      - Because then they are refered to as "Ladies of the Evening". (nm) Flash Fearless 11:22:57 2/10/2001 (0)
    - Sorry - not sure what that is supposed to mean...(nm) Patterson 19:36:39 2/08/2001 (3)
      - Only meant your previous post seemed to make it quite clear. Flash Fearless 20:12:08 2/08/2001 (1)
        
        Understood - the gray matter was just about gone when I first saw the post (nm) Patterson 10:19:49 2/09/2001 (0)
      - Disregard prior message...(nm) Patterson 19:44:37 2/08/2001 (0)
Re: You learn more about jackets every day... Hoth 17:57:52 2/08/2001 (1)
- Re: You learn more about jackets every day... Patterson 18:26:18 2/08/2001 (0)
Re: You learn more about jackets every day... Krunch 17:45:22 2/08/2001 (1)
- I think you may be ok... Patterson 18:40:39 2/08/2001 (0)

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: I’ve learned something new, and felt like sharing with the class.

: First, anybody out there notice they had a lot of room in their Flight Suit jacket?  Well, I did, and I kind of liked it.  I noticed I had much more room through the chest and shoulders as compared to my Wested, with the jacket still fitting correctly across the shoulders.  I had not really given it much thought until Lee and I spent the morning at Flight Suits a few weeks ago to hash out the patterns.  That was when I learned about “building ease into a garment.”

: The amount of ease is the amount of “give” built into the garment that allows for movement.  The placement of ease is critical to the garment hanging correctly, allowing movement, but without a baggy appearance.  This came up in the wrangling over measurements and proportions.  It seems a FS Expedition has about 10 inches of ease built into the chest, for example.  When this was explained, we asked them to look at the Wested LC I had brought along.  It had 4 inches of ease through the chest.  It is important to remember that they cut the jacket to make this extra “invisible” when the jacket hangs on you.  Honestly, I was quite impressed when they showed me how this was done.

: The point behind putting so much ease into a FS jacket is to allow the wearer to put on a sweater, or whatever under their jacket.  In their experience making A2’s and G1’s over the years, 10 inches seems to be right.  I asked, then “so if I’m just wearing t-shirts, polos and maybe the occasional long sleeve under this, can I go with a 46?  Maybe even a 44?”  My chest measures 48 inches.  My Wested is a 48, finished at 52.  Do I really need a 58?  I don’t think so.  To be honest, my Wested is a bit tight through the chest when zipped (ala the bar scene).  But about 4 extra inches of expertly hidden room would probably do me just fine.  Also, this helps in the tapering of the waist.  I hade an extra 4 inches of room with my 48 - and that was before they agreed to take 2 off the standard pattern.  Going down a size will likely get the waist and hips dialed in much better.

: Just something else that helps explains the fit issues we had, and the realization by both parties really helped move things along.  Hey, now that I just a 46, does the cost of my jacket come down by $30?  I may have to make a call…

: Oh, by the way.  I decided to try the veg seal brown goat.  They have some that is a bit thinner than they prefer, though it is the same thickness as their standard lambskin.  I’m looking forward to seeing that box show up!

: Cheers!

: Patterson

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